Wool Fiber Reference

From fleece to finished cloth, measured.

How wool is graded, what micron numbers actually mean on skin, how heavy a fabric should be for the job, and how to care for wool so it lasts decades.

REF-01

Natural Wool Fiber Grading

The old Bradford count (how many 560-yard hanks a pound of top could spin) still appears on labels. Approximate micron equivalents:

Bradford	≈ Micron	Feel
80s	17.7	Next-to-skin soft
70s	19.1	Fine knitwear
64s	21	Suiting, sweaters
56s	27	Outerwear cloth
48s	31	Rugs, upholstery

Comfort factor = share of fibers under 30 µm. Around 95%+ rarely prickles.

REF-02

Merino Micron Standards

Merino is traded on mean fiber diameter. Common trade bands:

Class	Mean diameter	Typical end use
Ultrafine	≤ 17.5 µm	Base layers, luxury knit
Superfine	17.6–18.5 µm	Next-to-skin apparel
Fine	18.6–19.5 µm	Midlayers, suiting
Medium	19.6–22.5 µm	Sweaters, socks
Strong	≥ 22.6 µm	Blankets, outerwear

REF-03

GSM Fabric Weight Guide

Grams per square meter is the clearest single number for warmth and durability.

GSM	Use
120–150	Lightweight base layer, warm-weather tee
170–200	All-season base layer
230–260	Midweight, cold-weather base
280–320	Heavy midlayer
450–750	Woolen coating cloth, melton, Mackinaw

GSM = oz/yd² × 33.906

REF-04

Lanolin Care & the Woolen Mill

Wash cool (≤ 30 °C) with a wool-specific, lanolin-safe detergent; never agitate.
Dry flat out of direct heat; reshape while damp.
Re-lanolize water-resistant pieces by soaking in warm water with dissolved lanolin.

Woolen mill process

Scour
Card
Spin
Weave
Full
Nap
Finish

Woolen yarn is carded, lofty and fulled into dense, wind-resistant cloth. Worsted yarn is combed parallel for smooth, crisp fabric.